Sunday

the pumpkin pie coat

I made this coat at least several weeks ago. I've just been procrastinating/busy.
This color was rather tricky to photograph, all colors with strong red/orange elements can look almost neon in hue/wash out the other colors around them. I took extras of some of these shots and weeded out the odd looking ones. Think of pumpkin pie, or nutmeg, and you will visualize this color.
This was my very first time making a coat like this. Until this project, I hadn't tried doing a (faced) lapel collar like this. I chose a pattern that looked like a good beginner project (it's a new look by simplicity pattern~I don't remember the number). I have an ornate, really long, Edwardian style pattern that I wanted to make, but I thought that I should do a "muslin" of something similar to start with, before digging into the French cotton fabric that I'm hoarding.
This material is from the "bargain" stack of remnants of upholstery fabric at a local store.
It's corduroy (it think it's a blend, I don't really know :)), it doesn't feel soft enough to be 100% cotton, I have some of that too, I could stroke it till the surface went bald.
The buttons are vintage, cherry red and have a matte surface.
I got them from a local antique shop.
The one bone I have to pick over this pattern: it isn't lined. That wasn't included in the pattern pieces, and I was not going to attempt drafting one myself. Every now and then, after I've had a little sew-a-thon, and I'm feeling cheeky, I'll try to draft a pattern for something-from scratch.
They are the most terrible failures. I usually end up recyling the fabric into something else.
Sooo, I purchase patterns. :)
I hand-sewed the lapel and hems, that took a little bit, but the result isn't bad at all. I pinked the edge of the front dart and pressed it down (as I sew more and more~I become more attached to the iron, it makes everything lay properly).
I'm not short (5,8). Nor do I have short arms. On the contrary. That is one element that can be annoying when I purchase vintage coats made for petite people, the sleeves are usually at least 2 inches too short. So on this pattern, instead of folding up the whole cuff allowance, I just did a 1/4 inch rolled seam.

I was a little alarmed at the amount of "slashing" that was involved in the collar/lapel area. I was totally plastered to the directions, hoping and praying that I would not slash the wrong seam.

This pattern was easy enough that I will be making more of these coats soon. :)

I have a bunch of lovely Japanese patterns that I can't understand. Maybe when I get a little more experience with coat making, I'll try some of them out. :)

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